Surfers and others spend a day at Rockaway Beach as impact from Hurricane Lee delvers large surf and rip tides to much of the Northeast on September 14, 2023 in New York City. Hurricane Lee is predicted to make landfall from Nova Scotia to New Brunswick and also parts Maine this weekend. (Photo by Spencer Platt/Getty Images)

A bogieboarder rides a wave at the wedge in Newport Beach, Calif., Wednesday, August 27, 2014. Southern California beachgoers experienced much higher than normal surf, brought on by Hurricane Marie spinning off the coast of Mexico. (Photo by Chris Carlson/AP Photo)

Big waves approach the beach of Nazare, Portugal, Tuesday, March 26, 2024. The high waves were caused by strong winds at one of the world's most popular surf spots. (Photo by Michael Probst/AP Photo)

Goat herder Dana McGregor's goats Pismo, left, and Goatee surf at San Onofre State Beach, Calif, on July 11, 2012. McGregor started taking Pismo's mother Goatee to the beach, and it wasn't long before she was on a surfboard. When Pismo was born, McGregor put her on a board too, and she was a natural, he says. (Photo by Rod Veal/The Orange County Register via AP)

Australia's Richie “Vas” Vaculik maneuvers past another surfer ducking under the wave during the inaugural Red Bull Cape Fear invitational surfing tournament off the shores of southern Sydney, August 31, 2014. (Photo by Jason Reed/Reuters)

Seth Moniz and Kelly Slater, of the United States, embrace after Slater won the Billabong Pro Pipeline contest just short of his 50th birthday in Haleiwa, Hawaii, US on February 5, 2022. (Photo by Brent Bielmann/World Surf League via AP Photo)

A news reporter doing a stand up near a sea wall in Cedar Key, Fla., is covered by an unexpected wave as Hurricane Hermine nears the Florida coast, Thursday, September 1, 2016. Hurricane Hermine gained new strength Thursday evening and roared ever closer to Florida's Gulf Coast, where rough surf began smashing against docks and boathouses and people braced for the first direct hit on the state from a hurricane in over a decade. (Photo by John Raoux/AP Photo)

Ben Thouard, 29, regularly dives into the crystal clear waters of Teahupoo, Tahiti's most famous surf break, to snap the empty waves. He stands in the water scouting out particular shapes and the right swell direction and shoots most of his pictures during the golden hours of sunrise and sunset. Here: A shot of a wave crashing down into the ocean in the clear waters of Teahupoo. (Photo by Ben Thouard/Caters News)