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A bogieboarder rides a wave at the wedge in Newport Beach, Calif., Wednesday, August 27, 2014. Southern California beachgoers experienced much higher than normal surf, brought on by Hurricane Marie spinning off the coast of Mexico. (Photo by Chris Carlson/AP Photo)

A bogieboarder rides a wave at the wedge in Newport Beach, Calif., Wednesday, August 27, 2014. Southern California beachgoers experienced much higher than normal surf, brought on by Hurricane Marie spinning off the coast of Mexico. (Photo by Chris Carlson/AP Photo)
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28 Aug 2014 10:58:00
Tahiti, French Polynesia, June 5, 2016: Surfer Courtney Conlogue. (Photo by Steven Lippman for ESPN The Magazine Body Issue)

Tahiti, French Polynesia, June 5, 2016: Surfer Courtney Conlogue. ESPN The Magazine's The Body Issue set out seven years ago with one mission: to celebrate and explore the athletic form through powerful images and interviews. The cornerstone of each annual issue is The Bodies We Want photo portfolio, which features roughly 20 of the world's most elite athletes posing nude. (Photo by Steven Lippman for ESPN The Magazine Body Issue)
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02 Jul 2016 12:42:00
A surfer drops in on a large wave at Praia do Norte, in Nazare December 11, 2014. Praia do Norte beach has gained popularity with big wave surfers since Hawaiian surfer Garrett McNamara broke a world record for the largest wave surfed here in 2011. (Photo by Rafael Marchante/Reuters)

A surfer drops in on a large wave at Praia do Norte, in Nazare December 11, 2014. Praia do Norte beach has gained popularity with big wave surfers since Hawaiian surfer Garrett McNamara broke a world record for the largest wave surfed here in 2011. (Photo by Rafael Marchante/Reuters)
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12 Dec 2014 12:55:00
In this April, 2015, photo provided by DC Shoes, daredevil Robbie Maddison in his latest stunt rides his motorcycle across waves in Tahiti, French Polynesia, using ski-like devices on his wheels. (Photo by Tim McKenna/DC Shoes via AP Photo)

In this April, 2015, photo provided by DC Shoes, daredevil Robbie Maddison in his latest stunt rides his motorcycle across waves in Tahiti, French Polynesia, using ski-like devices on his wheels. (Photo by Tim McKenna/DC Shoes via AP Photo)
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04 Aug 2015 12:38:00
Peruvian surfer Carlos “Huevito” Areola rides a reed board, or “caballito” (little horse), into a wave at Sydney's Bondi Beach, February 24, 2016. (Photo by Jason Reed/Reuters)

Peruvian surfer Carlos “Huevito” Areola rides a reed board, or “caballito” (little horse), into a wave at Sydney's Bondi Beach, February 24, 2016. Areola is part of a group of Peruvian surfers touring Australia’s east coast to promote the use of the “caballito”. The “caballito” is thought to have been invented around 3,000 BC in northern Peru. (Photo by Jason Reed/Reuters)
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25 Feb 2016 11:46:00
South African surfer Andy Marr rides a wave at Dungeons offshore reef in the Atlantic Ocean outside Cape Town, South Africa, 01 September 2016. The big wave surfing season is at its peak with winter swells driven by storms in the South Atlantic breaking on the Cape's outer reefs providing good conditions. Big wave surfers are competing in the 2016 Striped Horse Challenge and Rebel Sessions big wave competitons symultaneously throughout the season. (Photo by Nic Bothma/EPA)

South African surfer Andy Marr rides a wave at Dungeons offshore reef in the Atlantic Ocean outside Cape Town, South Africa, 01 September 2016. The big wave surfing season is at its peak with winter swells driven by storms in the South Atlantic breaking on the Cape's outer reefs providing good conditions. Big wave surfers are competing in the 2016 Striped Horse Challenge and Rebel Sessions big wave competitons symultaneously throughout the season. (Photo by Nic Bothma/EPA)
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02 Sep 2016 14:00:00
Ben Thouard, 29, regularly dives into the crystal clear waters of Teahupoo, Tahiti's most famous surf break, to snap the empty waves. He stands in the water scouting out particular shapes and the right swell direction and shoots most of his pictures during the golden hours of sunrise and sunset. Here: A shot of a wave crashing down into the ocean in the clear waters of Teahupoo. (Photo by Ben Thouard/Caters News)

Ben Thouard, 29, regularly dives into the crystal clear waters of Teahupoo, Tahiti's most famous surf break, to snap the empty waves. He stands in the water scouting out particular shapes and the right swell direction and shoots most of his pictures during the golden hours of sunrise and sunset. Here: A shot of a wave crashing down into the ocean in the clear waters of Teahupoo. (Photo by Ben Thouard/Caters News)
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06 Mar 2016 09:03:00
In this Feb. 17, 2017 photo, surfers walk to La Pampilla beach in Lima, Peru. Night surfing apparently came about in Lima because of a dispute with the capital municipality that in 2015 increased the width of a road that runs along the coast. The surfers protested the construction for months by camping on the asphalted beach area, but in the end the municipality prevailed, with support from the police. At the end of 2016, perhaps to win over the surfers, Lima's mayor set up beach lights that allows for night surfing. (Photo by Rodrigo Abd/AP Photo)

In this Feb. 17, 2017 photo, surfers walk to La Pampilla beach in Lima, Peru. Night surfing apparently came about in Lima because of a dispute with the capital municipality that in 2015 increased the width of a road that runs along the coast. The surfers protested the construction for months by camping on the asphalted beach area, but in the end the municipality prevailed, with support from the police. At the end of 2016, perhaps to win over the surfers, Lima's mayor set up beach lights that allows for night surfing. (Photo by Rodrigo Abd/AP Photo)
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04 May 2017 09:23:00