Clark was the guy who was photographed dropping into stupidly heavy Waimea shorebreak a few years back. Always admired him for that. I've swum in that shoredump and it's fu*cking heavy!
I also contracted some crazy tropical disease digging out Waimea river, but that's another story altogether!

Rumor, a German shepherd and winner of Best In Show at the 141st Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show, is fed steak at Sardi's in New York, U.S., February 15, 2017. (Photo by Shannon Stapleton/Reuters)

A tourist stands in front of Italy's Mount Etna as it spews lava during an eruption on the southern island of Sicily, Italy on March 1, 2017. (Photo by Antonio Parrinello/Reuters)

An old woman smokes a cigar at Old Havana's Plaza de la Catedral on February 07, 2006 in Havana, Cuba. (Photo by Marco Prosch/Getty Images)

Aerial photo taken on March 4, 2017 shows cole flower fields in Luoping County, southwest China's Yunnan Province. (Photo by Xinhua/Barcroft Images)

In this Sunday, March 5, 2017 photo, hospitality staff pose for photos on Tiananmen Square during the National People's Congress held at the Great Hall of the People in Beijing. (Photo by Andy Wong/AP Photo)

France's Simon Billy gets ready to practice speed skiing on the Chabriere ski slope in Vars, on March 29, 2017. (Photo by Jean-Pierre Clatot/AFP Photo)

A dog dressed as Oscar the Grouch takes part in the annual halloween dog parade at Manhattan's Tompkins Square Park in New York, NY, U.S. on October 21, 2017. (Photo by Lucas Jackson/Reuters)