Nic Lamb rides a wave during the third heat of the first round of the Mavericks Invitational big wave surf contest Friday, January 24, 2014, in Half Moon Bay, Calif. (Photo by Eric Risberg/AP Photo)

A surfer drops in on a large wave at Praia do Norte, in Nazare December 11, 2014. Praia do Norte beach has gained popularity with big wave surfers since Hawaiian surfer Garrett McNamara broke a world record for the largest wave surfed here in 2011. (Photo by Rafael Marchante/Reuters)

A surfer dressed as Santa gets to his feet as he braves the cold seas and near flat waves during the annual Surfing Santa as part of the Santa Run and Surf 2016 at Fistral Beach in Newquay on December 4, 2016 in Cornwall, England. Now in its third year, the santa surf and fun run is organised by Fistral Surf Center and Cornwall Hospice Care and raises funds for local charities. (Photo by Matt Cardy/Getty Images)

Boards stand lined up at the Rocinha Surf Association, ASR, headquarters at Rocinha slum in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, Thursday, July 2, 2015. ASR has given free lessons to over 2,000 children from Rio's shantytowns in the hopes of keeping the boys, who are mostly in their early teens and a few girls occupied by the sport and off the streets. (Photo by Felipe Dana/AP Photo)

Thor, Virginia Tech College of Engineering, Robotics and Mechanisms Laboratory, tries to connect the hose to a firehose connection during the hose task at the Homestead-Miami Speedway, Friday, December 20, 2013, in Homestead, Fla. (Photo by Alan Diaz/AP Photo)

A dog rides a wave while competing during the 5th Annual Surf Dog competition at Huntington Beach, California, on September 29, 2013. (Photo by Frederic J. Brown/AFP Photo)

Body surfers ride a large wave at the Wedge in Newport Beach of the Southland coast on May 20, 2011 in Newport, California. Surfers have been lured to the south facing beaches for the biggest swells of the season. (Photo by Kevork Djansezian/Getty Images)