Clark was the guy who was photographed dropping into stupidly heavy Waimea shorebreak a few years back. Always admired him for that. I've swum in that shoredump and it's fu*cking heavy!
I also contracted some crazy tropical disease digging out Waimea river, but that's another story altogether!

Before he was a controversial film-maker, Larry Clark was a controversial photographer, recording his teenage life of drugs and addiction in Tulsa (1971) and Teenage Lust (1983). Photo: Untitled, 1963. (Photo by Larry Clark/Courtesy of the artist and Luhring Augustine, New York)

Aymara indigenous women “Martha La Altena” (El Alto's Martha) (R) and “Susana La Bonita” (Pretty Susana) take part in a freestyle wrestling flight in El Alto, on June 29, 2018. “Cholita Fighters” aim to include their show in a tourist route. (Photo by Aizar Raldes/AFP Photo)

“The most serious health problem in the U.S. today is obesity.” Sounds familiar, doesn’t it? But that pronouncement about obesity’s primacy in the hierarchy of national health problems is not new. Rather, it’s the opening line to a remarkable article published 60 years ago in LIFE magazine. This photographs made by Martha Holmes to illustrate that March 1954 article, titled “The Plague of Overweight.” Photo: Dorothy Bradley (left), photographed for LIFE magazine article on obesity, 1949. (Photo by Martha Holmes/Time & Life Pictures)

A seagull flies through a rainbow near the Savannah River and the open spillway at Thurmond Dam in Clarks Hill, SC, Monday, January 4, 2016. (Photo by Michael Holahan/Augusta Chronicle via AP Photo)

In this undated photo entitled “Close Call”, a Hawaiian green sea turtle swims through a breaking wave on the North Shore of Oahu near Haleiwa, Hawaii. The image appears in photographer Clark Little's new book, “The Art of Waves”. (Photo by Clark Little via AP Photo)

Victoria's Secret Angel Martha Hunt celebrates the 2015 What Is s*xy? List in San Diego on September 26, 2015 in San Diego, California. (Photo by Joe Scarnici/Getty Images for Victoria's Secret)

A hot air balloon in the likeness of Yoda from Star Wars prepares for liftoff at the 21st Philippine International Hot Air Balloon Festival at the former Clark US Air Force base in Pampanga Province, Philippines on February 9, 2017. (Photo by Xinhua News Agency/Rex Features/Shutterstock)