Clark was the guy who was photographed dropping into stupidly heavy Waimea shorebreak a few years back. Always admired him for that. I've swum in that shoredump and it's fu*cking heavy!
I also contracted some crazy tropical disease digging out Waimea river, but that's another story altogether!

Before he was a controversial film-maker, Larry Clark was a controversial photographer, recording his teenage life of drugs and addiction in Tulsa (1971) and Teenage Lust (1983). Photo: Untitled, 1963. (Photo by Larry Clark/Courtesy of the artist and Luhring Augustine, New York)

A seagull flies through a rainbow near the Savannah River and the open spillway at Thurmond Dam in Clarks Hill, SC, Monday, January 4, 2016. (Photo by Michael Holahan/Augusta Chronicle via AP Photo)

Playboy Bunny, Penny (surname not given), is helped into her costume as she prepares herself before starting work at the Playboy Club on July 26, 2016 in London, England. The Playboy Club London is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year and will mark the event with a “Touch of Gold” party on July 29. (Photo by Carl Court/Getty Images)

In this undated photo entitled “Close Call”, a Hawaiian green sea turtle swims through a breaking wave on the North Shore of Oahu near Haleiwa, Hawaii. The image appears in photographer Clark Little's new book, “The Art of Waves”. (Photo by Clark Little via AP Photo)

A hot air balloon in the likeness of Yoda from Star Wars prepares for liftoff at the 21st Philippine International Hot Air Balloon Festival at the former Clark US Air Force base in Pampanga Province, Philippines on February 9, 2017. (Photo by Xinhua News Agency/Rex Features/Shutterstock)

Rich Paul, Simon, Tristan Thompson, Khloe Kardashian, Lucas Newton, Kendall Jenner, Justine Skye, Jordan Woods and Kylie Jenner pose for a photo as Remy Martin celebrates Tristan Thompson's Birthday at Beauty in Los Angeles on March 1, 2018. (Photo by Jerritt ClarkJerritt Clark/Getty Images for Remy Martin)

In this Thursday, October 3, 2019 photo, a female black bear sleeps with its tongue out high up in a Ponderosa pine tree near Clark Fork School in the Rattlesnake neighborhood of Missoula, Mont. The bear's cub, not pictured, was snoozing on a nearby branch. (Photo by Tommy Martino/The Missoulian via AP Photo)