Clark was the guy who was photographed dropping into stupidly heavy Waimea shorebreak a few years back. Always admired him for that. I've swum in that shoredump and it's fu*cking heavy!
I also contracted some crazy tropical disease digging out Waimea river, but that's another story altogether!

Before he was a controversial film-maker, Larry Clark was a controversial photographer, recording his teenage life of drugs and addiction in Tulsa (1971) and Teenage Lust (1983). Photo: Untitled, 1963. (Photo by Larry Clark/Courtesy of the artist and Luhring Augustine, New York)

Playboy Bunny, Penny (surname not given), is helped into her costume as she prepares herself before starting work at the Playboy Club on July 26, 2016 in London, England. The Playboy Club London is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year and will mark the event with a “Touch of Gold” party on July 29. (Photo by Carl Court/Getty Images)

In this undated photo entitled “Close Call”, a Hawaiian green sea turtle swims through a breaking wave on the North Shore of Oahu near Haleiwa, Hawaii. The image appears in photographer Clark Little's new book, “The Art of Waves”. (Photo by Clark Little via AP Photo)

A seagull flies through a rainbow near the Savannah River and the open spillway at Thurmond Dam in Clarks Hill, SC, Monday, January 4, 2016. (Photo by Michael Holahan/Augusta Chronicle via AP Photo)

A hot air balloon in the likeness of Yoda from Star Wars prepares for liftoff at the 21st Philippine International Hot Air Balloon Festival at the former Clark US Air Force base in Pampanga Province, Philippines on February 9, 2017. (Photo by Xinhua News Agency/Rex Features/Shutterstock)

American actress and singer Selena Gomez during the EE BAFTA Film Awards 2025 at The Royal Festival Hall on February 16, 2025 in London, England. (Photo by John Clark/BAFTA via Getty Images)

People look at home-made armoured vehicle look-alikes on a street in Shenyang, Liaoning province, November 12, 2014. A man surnamed Zhang and his friends converted two cars into these two vehicles, for his son, and will be displaying them on show at a local park. The cannons on the vehicles can fire paintballs and smoke shells, local media cited Zhang as saying. (Photo by Reuters/Stringer)