“In Damascus's Old City, just a mile from the battered frontline between government and rebel-held territory, young Syrians smoke, drink beer or soft drinks, and talk about anything but the war. It is a week night, but the Damascenes are keen to head out to a strip of new bars that have opened in the last few months – some to socialise and others to work in the venues. The revival of activity in this once-vibrant quarter is part of efforts to project an air of normality in the Syrian capital, even as the five-year-old war that has killed more than 250,000 people and created 5 million refugees continues to rage nearby. To the east and southwest, opposition-held Ghouta remains under blockade and bombardment by government forces. In Yarmouk Palestinian refugee camp, to the south, residents have recently faced starvation as rival jihadist groups al Qaeda and Islamic State battle for control. Shells were hitting Damascus's city centre late last year, including near Bab Sharqi gate. Now, people smoke water pipes outside Pub Sharqi – a play on words that reads the same in Arabic – or watch football at noisier bar “80's” next door.

The war is still felt inside the capital. Soldiers carrying assault rifles sweep vehicles for bombs at army roadblocks, causing traffic jams throughout the city, while distant artillery fire can sometimes be heard. Young people in the city are apprehensive about the future. They have lost loved ones to violence and displacement, rampant inflation is making life impossibly expensive, and some young men are anxious to avoid army enlistment. But encouraged by improved security after Russia's intervention strengthened the government's position and a partial truce in February brought some calm, these Damascus residents want to enjoy life where possible. “People are tired of war and just want to live a normal life, so they go out, they socialise”, said bartender Dana Daqqaq, a 21-year-old with bleached-blonde hair who works at night while studying for her fine art degree.Daqqaq said bar life was more than just a way to forget the war, but all the revellers had traumatic personal stories.

“Family on my dad's side serving in the army were killed under siege in Homs”, said Dana Ibrahim, 21, sitting at the same bar as Rahal. “My mum and four sisters live close to the military airport in Mezze”. The air base in western Damascus has come under shellfire and is next to the suburb of Daraya, which is besieged by the government side. “At times there's been bombing every day. Once a rocket hit right next to the house. I was out of town and didn't hear any news for two days. I thought my family was hit”, she said. Ibrahim had thought of leaving, like many friends who have fled for Europe or neighbouring countries. But now, able to socialise, she would rather stay put. “When I started to see life I stayed here. I don't want to be a refugee”, she said.

Maher Abu Jaafar, a 23-year-old agricultural engineering student living in Western Ghouta, said escalating violence and a siege by government forces mean he cannot leave the town. “At the moment I work at a street stall selling household items. My family is big, we can't guarantee getting essential supplies”, he said via an Internet message. “And things are getting worse because of the cost of living”. Inflation has seen the Syrian pound lose 90 percent of its value since 2011. In the Old City bar, Rahal tossed notes worth 550 Syrian pounds, or just over $1, onto the table. “The situation has improved perhaps a bit for work, but the economic situation is bad. Things are expensive, living standards have fallen”, he said. At night, generators whirr outside homes, while blocks are plunged into darkness after perhaps half a day with electricity. Daqqaq, the bartender, said a packet of cheap cigarettes which cost 250 Syrian pounds a few months ago now costs 450. Tonight, though, she and her friends and customers are preoccupied not with the war, the economy or thoughts of migration. They want to drink, listen to the Levantine-Western fusion of “Shamstep”, and enjoy life”. – Omar Sanadiki and John Davison via Reuters



La Marionnette Pub is seen in Damascus, Syria, March 11, 2016. In Damascus's Old City, just a mile from the battered frontline between government and rebel-held territory, young Syrians smoke, drink beer or soft drinks, and talk about anything but the war. The revival of activity in this once-vibrant quarter is part of efforts to project an air of normality in the Syrian capital, even as the five-year-old war that has killed more than 250,000 people and created 5 million refugees continues to rage nearby. (Photo by Omar Sanadiki/Reuters)





People spend time at 80s Bar in Damascus, Syria, March 11, 2016. (Photo by Omar Sanadiki/Reuters)





A bicycle is parked outside La Marionnette Pub in Damascus, Syria, March 11, 2016. (Photo by Omar Sanadiki/Reuters)





People spend time at Zodiac bar in Damascus, Syria, March 11, 2016. (Photo by Omar Sanadiki/Reuters)





A bartender pours a drink at 80s Bar in Damascus, Syria, March 11, 2016. (Photo by Omar Sanadiki/Reuters)





Bartenders work at 80s Bar in Damascus, Syria, March 11, 2016. (Photo by Omar Sanadiki/Reuters)





Dana, a bartender at Red Bar, prepares a drink with a shaker for a customer in Damascus, Syria, March 11, 2016. (Photo by Omar Sanadiki/Reuters)





People sit at a newly opened pub near a stencil of Lebanese singer Fayrouz in Damascus, Syria, March 24, 2016. (Photo by Omar Sanadiki/Reuters)





Dana (R), a bartender at Red Bar, pours drinks for customers in Damascus, Syria March 11, 2016. (Photo by Omar Sanadiki/Reuters)





People dance at 80s Bar in Damascus, Syria, March 11, 2016. (Photo by Omar Sanadiki/Reuters)





People carry drinks at 80s Bar in Damascus, Syria, March 11, 2016. (Photo by Omar Sanadiki/Reuters)





Marah, a DJ at 80s Bar, plays music in Damascus, Syria March 13, 2016. (Photo by Omar Sanadiki/Reuters)





People take a selfie at La Marionnette Pub in Damascus, Syria, March 10, 2016. (Photo by Omar Sanadiki/Reuters)





A young woman poses for a photograph outside Beit Zaman hotel where 80s Bar is located in Damascus, Syria March 11, 2016. (Photo by Omar Sanadiki/Reuters)





Kenan smiles as he carries a drink outside 80s Bar in Damascus, Syria, March 24, 2016. (Photo by Omar Sanadiki/Reuters)





People pose for a photograph at a newly opened pub in front of a stencil of Syrian actor Duraid Lahham in Damascus, Syria, March 24, 2016. The writing on the wall reads: “Cheers to homeland”. In Damascus's Old City, just a mile from the battered frontline between government and rebel-held territory, young Syrians smoke, drink beer or soft drinks, and talk about anything but the war. (Photo by Omar Sanadiki/Reuters)





Dana Daqqaq, a bartender at Pub Sharqi, pours a drink during her shift in Damascus, Syria, March 25, 2016. (Photo by Omar Sanadiki/Reuters)