Clark was the guy who was photographed dropping into stupidly heavy Waimea shorebreak a few years back. Always admired him for that. I've swum in that shoredump and it's fu*cking heavy!
I also contracted some crazy tropical disease digging out Waimea river, but that's another story altogether!

Before he was a controversial film-maker, Larry Clark was a controversial photographer, recording his teenage life of drugs and addiction in Tulsa (1971) and Teenage Lust (1983). Photo: Untitled, 1963. (Photo by Larry Clark/Courtesy of the artist and Luhring Augustine, New York)

A seagull flies through a rainbow near the Savannah River and the open spillway at Thurmond Dam in Clarks Hill, SC, Monday, January 4, 2016. (Photo by Michael Holahan/Augusta Chronicle via AP Photo)

In this undated photo entitled “Close Call”, a Hawaiian green sea turtle swims through a breaking wave on the North Shore of Oahu near Haleiwa, Hawaii. The image appears in photographer Clark Little's new book, “The Art of Waves”. (Photo by Clark Little via AP Photo)

A hot air balloon in the likeness of Yoda from Star Wars prepares for liftoff at the 21st Philippine International Hot Air Balloon Festival at the former Clark US Air Force base in Pampanga Province, Philippines on February 9, 2017. (Photo by Xinhua News Agency/Rex Features/Shutterstock)