Clark was the guy who was photographed dropping into stupidly heavy Waimea shorebreak a few years back. Always admired him for that. I've swum in that shoredump and it's fu*cking heavy!
I also contracted some crazy tropical disease digging out Waimea river, but that's another story altogether!

General atmosphere on Shipyard Island, the venue of the 24th Sziget (Island) Festival in Northern Budapest, Hungary, 14 August 2016. (Photo by Mohai Balázs/Rockstar Photographers)

The first seal pup to be born this season at a major colony of grey seals on the Farne Islands sits beside its mother on Brownsman Island, England on September 30, 2015. (Photo by Owen Humphreys/PA Images)

An abandoned motorboat is seen on the bank of a bay near Krabozavodskoye settlement on the Island of Shikotan, one of four islands known as the Southern Kuriles in Russia and the Northern Territories in Japan, December 19, 2016. (Photo by Yuri Maltsev/Reuters)

UK Love Island beauty Samira Mighty (L) seen arriving at Mahiki Kensington on November 16, 2018 in London, England. (Photo by CURLEY)

In this June 29, 2015 photo, forlorn buildings are seen at Hashima Island, commonly known as Gunkanjima, which means “Battleship Island”, off Nagasaki, Nagasaki Prefecture, southern Japan. The island is one of 23 old industrial facilities seeking UNESCO's recognition as world heritage “Sites of Japan's Meiji Industrial Revolution” meant to illustrate Japan's rapid transformation from a feudal farming society into an industrial power at the end of the 19th century. UNESCO's World Heritage Committee is expected to approve the proposal during a meeting being held in Bonn, Germany, through July 9. (Photo by Eugene Hoshiko/AP Photo)

A boat, center, is surrounded by Japan Cost Guard's patrol boats after some activists descended from the boat on Uotsuri Island, one of the islands of Senkaku in Japanese and Diaoyu in Chinese, in East China Sea Wednesday, Aug. 15, 2012. Regional tensions flared on the emotional anniversary of Japan's World War II surrender as activists from China and South Korea used Wednesday's occasion to press rival territorial claims, prompting 14 arrests by Japanese authorities. The 14 people had traveled by boat from Hong Kong to the disputed islands controlled by Japan but also claimed by China and Taiwan. (Photo by Yomiuri Shimbun/Masataka Morita/AP Photo)