Clark was the guy who was photographed dropping into stupidly heavy Waimea shorebreak a few years back. Always admired him for that. I've swum in that shoredump and it's fu*cking heavy!
I also contracted some crazy tropical disease digging out Waimea river, but that's another story altogether!

A broken picture frame is left in the tsunami-hit Arahama area, three months and two days after the magnitude 9.0 earthquake and subsequent tsunami on June 13, 2011 in Sendai, Miyagi, Japan. Japanese government has been struggling to deal with the earthquake and tsunami as well as the troubled Fukushima Daiichi Nuclear Power Plant. The fear on outbreak of virus infectious disease are mounting due to the humid rainy season on the corner and delay of the clearing the debris. (Photo by Kiyoshi Ota/Getty Images)

A prong extending from a remote-controlled robot prototype approaches the mouth of a volunteer to extract a throat swab sample, as part of a self-funded project to assist physicians in running tests on suspected COVID-19 coronavirus patients in a bid to limit human exposure to disease-carriers, at a private hospital in Egypt's Nile delta city of Tanta, on March 20, 2021. (Photo by Khaled Desouki/AFP Photo)

Men wear masks as they sit in the metro in Prague, Czech Republic, 17 March 2020. According to media reports, the Czech government decided to impose a two-week quarantine in the country on the evening of 15 March, and ban all international travel from 16 March 2020. Currently 383 cases of the coronavirus SARS-CoV-2, which causes the Covid-19 disease, have been officially confirmed in Czech Republic. (Photo by Martin Divisek/EPA/EFE)

Barber Herman Mulyana (R) gives a haircut to a customer while wearing protective attire made from plastic garbage bags at a barbershop in Bogor, Indonesia, 06 April 2020. The Trade Ministry of Indonesia issued a regulation temporarily recinding all requirements for the import of protective gear and medical equipment, to counter shortages of many items used to treat COVID-19 patients and prevent the further spread of the disease. (Photo by Adi Weda/EPA/EFE)

A local resident dressed as Yamraj or Hindu god of death, wearing a novel coronavirus-themed balloon necklace, gestures as he poses during an awareness about social distancing and staying at home organised by Delhi police during a nationwide lockdown to slow the spreading of the coronavirus disease (COVID-19), in New Delhi, India, April 28, 2020. (Photo by Adnan Abidi/Reuters)

Tourists wearing protective face masks walk in Nanluoguxiang alley, a famous touristic spot at Hutong neighborhood, in Beijing, China, 01 May 2020. China is loosening up nationwide restrictions after months of lockdown over the coronavirus crisis. Labor Day in the country kicked off with a long weekend and an extended holiday, from 01 to 05 May, after the tourism industry has been hit during the coronavirus and COVID-19 disease pandemic. (Photo by Roman Pilipey/EPA/EFE)

An actor dressed as a zombie performs during a drive-in haunted house show by Kowagarasetai (Scare Squad), for people inside a car in order to maintain social distancing amid the spread of the coronavirus disease (COVID-19), at a garage in Tokyo, Japan on July 3, 2020. A Japanese performance group is starting a run of drive-in horror shows for people who are scared of catching the coronavirus but still want to get close-up frights from ghouls and zombies. Audience members will drive into a garage in Tokyo, one car at a time, and listen to a murder story and sound effects blared out of speakers, as actors dressed as monsters bang on the side of the vehicle and spray fake blood over the windows. (Photo by Issei Kato/Reuters)